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Mas de l’Ecriture, Jonquières, Coteaux du Languedoc
Pascal Fulla
After legal studies, and twenty years in business, Pascal Fulla finally realised a long-standing dream, and became a vigneron. Mas de l’Ecriture is in the commune of Jonquières, within the Coteaux du Languedoc appellation, in the Terrasses du Larzac region, on a stony, sandy clay soil over Jurassic limestone base. Pascal produces red wines from the classic regional varieties, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan. Out of a total 17.4 hectares of the domaine, only six and a half hectares are in production at present, planted with Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Carignan, between 18 and 42 years old. A further six and a half hectares were re-planted in 1999 and 2000, after a complete soil analysis to determine rootstock and scion.
Yields are very low, around 24 hectolitres per hectare in 1999 and 2000, and a mere 18 hectolitres per hectare for the 2001 and 2002 vintages. The vines are worked as biologically as possible, with natural products, de-leafing, green fertilizers, and the development of an organic ecosystem to favourise the vine’s resistance to parasites and diseases. The domaine is equipped with a complete weather station, which transmits the data by computer to the agricultural advisory company with which the domaine works. Each parcelle is separately vinified and aged, each receiving the individual attention which it needs. For example, Grenache might be in French oak, Cinsault in Russian, and Carignan in French, depending on the characteristics and the vintage. The grapes are de-stemmed, and undergo a long cuvaison, followed by a gentle pressing in a vertical hydraulic press. Wines are aged in new or 1 and 2 year old barriques, with different sizes (600 litre, 450 litre, 300 and 225 litre, chosen to complement each varietal in each vintage).
The Déclinaison was a cuvée only produced in 1999 and 2000. Pascal feels that he has now fully “declined” his final style, and no longer needs this cuvée. The 2000 is ripe, peppery, elegant and generous, attractive, and already expressive. From Grenache, Cinsault and a little
Carignan.
The Pensées 2000 has rich, elegant powerful licorice fruit, peppery, concentrated and very intense. The 2001 has peppery ripe soft spicy fruit, long, intense, and already attractive, with a baked but elegant intensity. From a blend of Syrah, Cinsault and Grenache Noir.
The Mas de l’Ecriture Le Mas 2000 is perfection; spicy, rich, complex and broad, long, and very classy. Big chewy fruit is perfectly matched by ripe tannins and firm structure. The 2001 has rich smooth peppery ripe tannins, with good weight and volume, and rich, silky voluptuous fruit, Elegant and very intense and complete. From a blend of around 55% Syrah, 25% Grenache, and 20% Mourvèdre. |